+ Wide Fit

Wide fit jeans take their cues from the utility and workwear trousers of the early twentieth century, when ease of movement mattered more than a tailored line. The leg is cut generously from hip to hem, sitting with a relaxed, unhurried drape that feels as comfortable as it looks considered. In recent years, wide fits have become one of the most exciting categories in Japanese denim, with makers experimenting with high rises, pleats, and unconventional fabrics to push the silhouette forward. These are jeans that reward confidence.

Fit note

Wide fits are often cut with a higher rise to balance the volume of the leg. If you are between sizes, sizing down is worth considering — the extra room in the leg means the waist is usually the better guide.

+ Straight Fit

Straight fit jeans are the foundation of classic denim. Inspired by the workwear cuts of the 1940s and 1950s, they typically feature a balanced rise, room through the thigh and a straight leg from knee to hem. This shape has remained largely unchanged for decades because it simply works. Straight fits are easy to wear, versatile, and suit most body types. If you’re unsure where to begin with raw denim, this is usually the safest starting point.

It is important to note that Japanese denim is not defined solely by selvedge.
Selvedge is a weaving method.

Japanese denim refers to origin, philosophy and production standards.

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+ Tapered Fit

Tapered fit jeans share the same roots as the straight cut but are shaped more closely to the body as they move down the leg. The thigh has room to breathe, but the knee and leg opening are noticeably narrower, creating a cleaner, more contemporary silhouette. This cut became prominent in Japanese denim circles as makers began refining workwear shapes for modern wear. Tapered fits work particularly well with heavier fabrics, where the reduced leg opening helps balance the weight and structure of the cloth.

Fit note

Tapered jeans can vary significantly between makers. Some taper aggressively from the thigh, others only from the knee. Always check the leg opening measurement alongside the thigh when comparing fits.

+ Frequently Asked Questions

Everything you need to know about choosing the right denim fit.

Straight fit jeans maintain a consistent leg width from thigh to hem. Tapered fit jeans are cut with more room in the thigh but narrow toward the knee and leg opening. Wide fit jeans are cut generously throughout the entire leg, sitting with a relaxed, open silhouette. All three share the same heritage in workwear but create very different looks and feels when worn.

Straight fit is the safest starting point. It is the most versatile cut, suits most body types, and is the closest to what most people have worn before. Once you are comfortable with how raw denim fits and fades, tapered and wide fits are worth exploring.

Tapered fits work well if you want a cleaner, more contemporary silhouette without going fully slim. They suit most builds but tend to look particularly good on those with a longer leg. The key measurement to check is the leg opening — anything under 16cm is considered a strong taper, while 17–19cm sits in a more relaxed tapered range.

Not if you balance the proportions. Wide fit jeans pair well with fitted or tucked-in tops, structured jackets, and chunky footwear. The extra volume in the leg benefits from something more considered on top. Avoid oversized everything — the jeans are already doing the heavy lifting.

Yes. Straight fits tend to develop even, consistent fades across the leg. Tapered fits often show more pronounced fading at the thigh and knee due to the fabric pulling tighter in those areas. Wide fits fade more slowly and evenly because the fabric sits away from the leg, reducing friction. All three can produce excellent results — the pattern just differs.

Wide fits are typically cut with a higher rise and more room throughout, so sizing down at the waist is often worth considering. The extra volume in the leg means the waist is usually the better guide. If you are between sizes, try the smaller size first — you can always let the waist out slightly, but you cannot take in the leg without altering the silhouette.

Tapered fits handle heavier fabrics particularly well. The narrower leg opening helps manage the weight and structure of the cloth, preventing the leg from looking shapeless. Straight fits also work well in heavier weights. Wide fits in very heavy fabrics can be challenging to wear in warmer climates but look exceptional in cooler conditions — the drape of a 15oz wide fit in winter is hard to beat.

Lay the jeans flat on a surface and measure straight across the hem from seam to seam. Double that number to get the full circumference, or use the single measurement to compare against brand size charts, which typically list the half-measure. A straight fit usually sits between 18–22cm, a tapered fit between 14–19cm, and a wide fit from 22cm upward, though these ranges vary between makers.

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